Salumeria Rosi Italian Restaurant, Upper West Side

Salumeria Rosi

May 11, 2009

For years the Upper West Side was something of a culinary wasteland, much to the dismay of the families and young singles who were flocking to the ever-growing number of luxury buildings in the area. That’s all changed, thanks to recent openings of the likes of Salumeria Rosi, a handsome, happening place specializing in Italian small plates; cured, dried, and smoked meats; and, of course, plenty of buon vino.

You’ll be tempted to order the whole menu here, but, really, a small plate or two plus some sliced meats is enough for a totally satisfying supper. Among our personal favorites on the Carta Degli Assaggi are the Poached Egg in Parmesan Chicken Broth with Prosciutto soup–hearty, salty, crispy, total heaven–the excellent slow-cooked tripe and tomato stew, and the Cipolline in Agrodolce, which are tiny, sweet-and-sour onions cooked in balsamic vinegar that make for a delightful accompaniment to one of the gorgeous platters of meat.

Ah, yes, the meat. From creamy, fatty pork jowl, to zippy, fennel-infused Finocchiona salami to the restaurant’s signature Parmacotto–so dry and sweet?there are nearly 20 varieties of ham and salami here. Your best bet may be to order the $16 sampler, a gorgeous expanse of seven different kinds of swine from across the spectrum, chosen by the expert salumiere on duty.

Conveniently located near the Loews Lincoln Square theaters, the Lincoln Plaza Cinemas and–you guessed it–Lincoln Center itself, Salumeria Rosi is a welcome addition to the neighborhood. And if you don’t have time to sit and enjoy, you can always bring home meats and salads, as well as a number of traditional Italian grocery products, from the counter up front.