We've been huge Chef Zakary Pelaccio fans for a while now, ever since his first-rate Fatty Crab brought the full Malaysian funk to the West Village/Meatpacking District in 2006. Last year the excellent Fatty Crab UWS proved that Pelaccio could transport his intense flavors and energy to the usually-play-it-safe, family-friendly West 70s, with no loss of daring and deliciousness. (We're not the only ones who agree; the place is packed every night.) And now there's Fatty 'Cue, an extraordinary mash-up of traditional barbecue-type dishes with Pelaccio's beloved Southeast-Asian sensibilities. The setting is Williamsburg, a few blocks from the L; the atmosphere is a food-and-booze party; the overall result was perhaps the single best meal we've had so far this year.
More pig arrived at our table in a hurry (dishes are brought as they're ready, rather than in any sort of appetizer-entree progression), in the form of three insanely great Heritage Pork Ribs, sticky with smoked fish sauce, meaty enough to dig in with big, satisfying bites. We also loved Fatty 'Cue's Celery Salad with Tianjin preserved cabbage, a crunchy and refreshing break from all the sweetmeats and smoke, thanks in no small part to the lively, lemony yuzu that seemed to infuse the entire dish.
Fatty 'Cue in Williamsburg Details
Fatty 'Cue is located in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, on South 6th Street between Berry Street and Bedford Avenue, and is open for dinner every day from 5:00 p.m. until 12:00 midnight, for late night snacking until 2:00 a.m., and for brunch on the weekend from 12:00 noon until 4:00 p.m. For more information and complete menus, please see the Fatty 'Cue website, here.