Tacombi at Fonda Nolita
The somewhat awkwardly-named Tacombi at Fonda Nolita is, above all else, one of those rare super-gimmicky spots that totally works. Set amongst the precious boutiques and beautiful-people cafes of Elizabeth Street in a poured-concrete garage, Tacombi at Fonda Nolita is a (relatively) cheap taco stand that does everything it can to evoke the owners' other location… which happens to be la Playa de Carmen on Mexico's Yucatan Peninsula. And damned if they don't pull it off. Tacombi at Fonda Nolita may not have the best tacos in town (though they're definitely up there), and this isn't a place you'd go for a well-balanced meal, but as a quick bite while shopping, or before or after a movie at the nearby Sunshine or the Angelika, or just for fun with the kids or on a date, you won't find a more relaxed, goofy-in-a-good-way environment in which to wolf a spicy, satisfying snack. Or three.
We've been to Tacombi at Fonda Nolita quite a few times, and the tacos, in all of their varieties, have always been consistently good and, on occasion, even pretty great. When you enter Tacombi at Fonda Nolita you order your tacos (or tostadas, or tamales) at the counter to your right, pick them up at the old-school, retro-fitted VW "Combi" Bus that dominates the decor, then grab a seat at any of the folding chairs and tables. The stringed-up lights add to the overall festiveness, as do the hand-painted signs for Mexican sodas y cervezas on the walls. There's music, there's a surf video playing, people are laughing and your hands are getting messy… it's all feels remarkably beachy, and transportive, here at Tacombi at Fonda Nolita.
You can't really go too wrong with your taco choice at Fonda Nolita, and they're all very simply served, the primary protein well-seasoned and piled onto a pair of small, flat, soft tortillas, with not a lot of garnish, or extras. Both the red and the green sauce on the table add a nice kick, though not all the varieties need anything extra. Our favorites are probably the Breakfast-All-Day Taco, which is a lively chopped-up chorizo and scrambled-egg mix, topped with a wedge or two of avocado; and the Veracruz Fish Taco, for which the swimmer has been marinated, grilled and tossed with tomato and onion. The Tacombi at Fonda Nolita menu changes fairly regularly, but if you get a couple of anything, and a sweet, cinnamon-y cup of iced Horchata, we can safely say you're going to walk away from this unlikely "beach" stand more relaxed, happy, and satisfied than when you strolled in.
Tacombi at Fonda Nolita Details
Tacombi at Fonda Nolita is located on Elizabeth Street between Houston and Prince Streets, and is open every day at 8:00 for breakfast, and until 12:00 midnight on Sunday through Wednesday, and until 1:00 am on Thursday through Saturday. For more information and a look at a sample Tacombi at Fonda Nolita menu, please see their website, here.