Colicchio and Sons NYC: An Elegant Tap Room in the Meatpacking District
Colicchio and Sons Tap Room in NYC is a restaurant for grownups, in a neighborhood (the Meatpacking District) not known for understated elegance, in a time when mid-priced New York City dining seems dominated by pizza, small plates, fried chicken, and pork buns. Not that we don't adore those dishes when done well–burgers, too; also, meatballs–but still… there is something refreshing about settling into your table at Colicchio and Sons Tap Room, the decor casual and classy, the service friendly but totally professional, the music fun but not screaming loud, the menu filled with interesting, fully-realized meals. And, um, pizza.
The Colicchio of Colicchio and Sons Tap Room is, of course, the Top Chef star Tom Colicchio, who also manages a few other great restaurants in New York City, including the mix-n-match Craft and the 'wichcraft sandwich chain, not to mention the New York Times three-starred Colicchio and Sons proper, just behind the Tap Room's lovely wall of wine, and definitely on our high-end restaurant wish list. Anyway, given all of his success and divided attention, Chef Tom Colicchio could have coasted a bit at Colicchio and Sons Tap Room but, based on the half dozen dishes we devoured, he most definitely did not.
For example, the huge, beautiful Braised Pork Shank, sweet, tender and glistening in its cast iron dish, presiding triumphantly over a pool of thick polenta and bunches of bitter swiss chard. On a warm evening, this Colicchio and Sons NYC dish was perfect. When things start getting nippy out there, it'll be heaven. Also outstanding–balanced, earthy, and seriously satisfying–was the Stuffed Shells, bursting with chunks of duck, creamy ricotta, and wild mushrooms, all in a funky sofrito sauce. We tried one of the pizzas on our first visit and it, too, was first-rate, an intensely rich, chewy pie generously topped with taleggio cheese, fried egg, anchovies and sopressata.
Starters were equally successful, especially the lemony, summery salad of green and yellow beans, frisee, crackly dried pork belly and a fat poached egg. Very good, too, was the Chilled Corn and Bacon Soup, all sweet and smoky. Even our least favorite appetizer at Colicchio and Sons restaurant was still pretty great, a tray layered with translucent slices of Housemade Bresaola nicely combined with celery root and fried capers. All in all? We can't wait to go back.
Colicchio and Sons Tap Room Details
Colicchio and Sons NYC is located on the corner of Tenth Avenue and 15th Street, and is open for lunch at 12:00 noon until 5:00 on weekdays, and for brunch at 11:00 until 3:30 on Saturday and Sunday. Dinner service begins every night at 5:00, and runs until 10:00 on Sunday to Thursday, and until 11:00 on Friday and Saturday nights. For more information and sample menus, please see the Colicchio and Sons website, here.