Sfoglia

April 19, 2009

Sfoglia is that rare restaurant whose cozy, casual atmosphere and gentle pricing seem to indicate “neighborhood spot”, but whose food is so spectacularly good that it also functions as a destination for all of New York City. Thus the only problem with this Trattoria everybody loves: since it’s always booked six week out, it can be difficult to actually eat here.

But because there really isn’t any excuse for NOT eating Chef Ron Suhanosky’s ridiculously delicious Gnocchi with guanciale, cauliflower, manila clams and peperoncini; or Chef Colleen Marnell-Suhanosky’s sublime Semifreddo of milk chocolate, espresso and hazelnut, here’s what you should do. Preferably this week.

Solution #1: Eat dinner at the bar. You may have to wait, but there’s no reservation required.
Solution #2: Eat lunch.

Yes, lunch. Like many of the city’s best–and, so, most in-demand–restaurants, at Sfoglia that same table that’s impossible to get after 5:30 is most likely empty and waiting for you at 12:30 or 1:00. And it even works with a crowd! A friend of ours, wanting to celebrate his daughter’s graduation from a nearby elementary school, called just two days in advance and secured a table for eight. Extra bonus: because the back of the house wasn’t in its usual nighttime frenzy, when the manager discovered the reason for the celebration, she brought the guest of honor back to the kitchen to help make cookies.

Anyway, the entire menu is terrific here, and once you’ve devoured, say, the Pappardelle alla Bolognese; or the Artichokes with cured tuna, toasted almonds and lemon dressing; or whatever miraculous Gelati are being scooped that day, you’ll want to go back. And devour all the rest.

Sfoglia

Sfoglia is located on the corner of 92nd Street and Lexington Avenue, and is open for lunch on Tuesdays through Saturday from 12:00 until 2:30, and everyday for dinner from 5:30 until 11:00.